
1937 Chevrolet Master Business Coupe
Owner: Mark and Jill Nelson
Fessenden,
ND
Completed 9/20/02 at

5057 171st
Ave SE, Horace, ND
Mark contacted Hot Rods by HG in late 2000 to have his
uncles old 37 Chevy Coupe restored. Mark recalls many rides in this buggy during
his youth and pursued the finding of the car. When found the owner was reluctant
to sell but Mark persisted and obtained the family heirloom. Following are the
steps taken to bring this 37 Chevrolet Master Business Coupe back to life. The
total restoration took over 500 man hours to complete.
Vehicle
Identification Number 21GB0729314
Style
37-1217 Master Five Window Coupe
Body J 3503 Trim 63 Paint 213
Restoration steps.
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Here we have
the project ready to start. On jack stands and the wheels off we have access
to all parts of the car. An inspection reveled more issues that were unseen.
As we progress we find more hidden items. |
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The project
looked good when we started, paint looked good and the car started and ran
ok. First thing we did was pull the front clip to get access to the front
suspension and engine. The front fenders and hood are always done off the
car. |
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Now we have
the front clip off we can access the engine and suspension. Engine was
checked for compression and other items and found to be boarder line, so
decision was to do a complete overhaul. |
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Not sure if
you can make it out, the rear floor pan under the seat and gas tank was
level full of mouse crap and cotton from the interior. Once cleaned we found
lots of rust holes. . |
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The drivers
side floor pan was in need of repair, rust hole by the rocker and very thin.
The old panel was cut out and a new pan was made |
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The engine is
pulled along with the transmission, manifolds are taken off. The entire
engine will be taken to the machine shop for complete tear down. This is the
“Babbitt” and “dip” bearing and oil system. The rods will be upgraded to
“insert” type bearings. Valve seats will be changed to “hardened” seats to
allow unleaded fuel to be used. |
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Now we have
full access to the fire wall and front frame components. All bushings on the
springs were replaced, the steering gear was rebuilt, new king pins were
installed and all brake lines and cylinders were replaced. Frame horns were
media blasted and painted. |
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Here are some
of the surprises we find once the car is taken apart. This is the front part
of the rear fender and media blasting has shown the rust holes. This will be
cut out and new metal patches will be welded in. |
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More
surprises on the rear fenders, this is the driver’s side rear of back
fender. Both fenders had to have the back tails completely redone and
patched. Some areas of the fender tail were 2” thick with bondo. |
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This is the
top side flange of the rear fenders that fastens to the body. Lots of rust
holes and patch work here to make this a solid unit once more. This is why
the car needs to be pulled apart before painting. In a couple of years this
fender would have been rattling and cracking the paint.
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Once the rear
floor was stripped, gas tank out and the trunk wood package shelf was out we
found all kinds of nice rust holes to fix. Rodent droppings and urine do and
good job of eating metal. |
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This is the
rear body mount area; both left and right side had to be rebuilt to make a
solid mount. |
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The old wire
harness had seen better days. Lots of splices and repair to the firewall and
engine harnesses. Once we pulled the whole harness we found lots of broken
and stripped wire. A new complete harness was ordered and installed to
assure a problem free final unit. |
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The underside
of he car was very solid and clean other than the rear floor and driver
floor spots, there was no rust through. A good blasting and this was ready
to paint. |
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This gives
you an idea of how tough the back ends of the rear fenders were. Lots of
holes and bondo to make it match the rear pan. We cut out the old patch and
rust areas and extended the tail to fit as it should. Pen marks indicate
planned patches. |
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Now we can
get into the repair parts. Here the rear floor has new patches welded in and
ground down. Note the new wire harness for the taillights. Once all the
metal work was done a light coat of primer and undercoating was applied to
the entire inside and covered with black paint. |

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The tail pan
did not get by with out some patch work as well. Here a patch has been
welded on to replace the rust that had been cut out. |

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Here is
picture of the inside door before it was completely disassembled for clean
up and service. All the rubber seals, window whiskers and channel were
replaced. New glass was also cut for the side and vent widows as well as
rear quarter windows. |

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. The
interior was completely stripped to allow full access to the dash and other
components. Gauges were reworked, cleaned and reinstalled. Temp gauge was
sent out for repair. |

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In
preparation for the final product we media blasted the dash. All instruments
had been removed and glass and other items masked off to prevent damage. The
dash was repainted a metallic brown that was close to the original color |

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Here is
another look at the rear floor with the patches in and finished off. All
rust was removed prior to the patch being welded in. |

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The rear of
the car seemed to sag so rear springs were removed and sent out to have them
reached and an extra leaf added to assure a proper height. They were arched
one inch and the extra leaf added another inch. |

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Her is what
the drivers floor pan looked like once it was welded. Seams will be ground
down to make the floor smooth. We fabricated this out of 16 gauge. |

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Even the
heater had to be rebuilt. Found a company in CA that recored the round type
heaters. |

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Every part of
the car was taken down to metal including the heater box. |

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Once all the
welding and other prep work was done, we proceeded to finish off the front
frame area. All components had been rebuilt and the chassis completely
cleaned. A high quality PPG urethane was used. |

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Once the
chassis and fire wall were completed the engine was painted and installed.
Now wiring and plumbing could be put on. Engine was bored .030 with new
valves and seats, water pump, radiator was recored, carburetor overhauled
and more. |

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Here the car
is primed and ready for final block sanding with 320. The rear fenders are
hung on and are removed to be finished. |

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Here Kelly is
fitting the welting and seals to the front fenders. Note the fender has been
“color sanded” with 1500 for final clear coat and pearl application. |

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A base coat
of black is applied, a good 3 coats. Note the rear fenders and front clip
are not mounted. This allows us to paint all the joint areas. A couple of
coats of clear are applied after the base. |

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The next step
is to assemble the car and do a full “color sand” with 1500 on the clear
coat. This will give us a glass like surface to apply the red pearl and more
clear. Note car is now assembled to assure a consistent application of the
pearl. |

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Final paint
is black base with clear coat, color sanded and clear with pearl applied,
then 3 coats of clear to top it off. This is then color sanded with 2000 and
buffed and polished. The wide whites add a lot the look. |

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Another look
at the final paint. When inside or under clouds it looks nice and black.
When the sun hits the pearl it’s a whole different look! This is what we
call “Black Cherry”. Look at a dark cherry in the grocery store and you’ll
see the effect. |

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Once the
paint was done and it was running, time for interior. Billy’s Custom Cover
Up in Kindred, ND. Original type material was obtained and used the stock
patterns. |

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Here is the
back head liner and package shelf. Window trim was redone with a wood grain
kit. |

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Another shot
of the head liner and quarter window area. |

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The front
seat is installed and new materials were used in the base. |

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Here we have
the final product with new chrome bumpers and everything in place. |

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This will
give Mark and Jill some fun times and lots of looks and “wows” for a long
time to come. |

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